Tutorial - Wald Fenders Installation
NOTE: THIS PAGE NEEDS EDITING. WALD NOW INCLUDES A BRACKET FOR ATTACHING THE REAR STAY TO THE BRIDGE HOLE. NO NEED TO DRILL A HOLE IN THE FENDER AS THE DIRECTIONS BELOW INDICATE.
Wald fenders look swell, but there are a few modifications necessary to install them properly. Depending on your level of mechanical aptitude and access to basic tools, installing these Wald fenders can be relatively easy and worth the effort. I've documented this installation with photographs to explain what I'm doing. Study the photos in sequence and it should make sense.
Note: these fenders don't include metric hardware, so you'll need to find two 5mm screws and one 6mm screw. You'll also need a hammer, a drill with 1/4" bit, and a hack-saw or grinder to cut metal. You should probably grab a beer, too.
Let's install the front fender first. Hold the fender in place and you'll see the curvature does not match the wheel ideally. Modify the curvature of the fender by "flattening" it incrementally with your thumbs and fingers, working your way along the length of the fender. Gradually "flatten" the fender until you see the curvature take the shape of your 20" wheel. Compare these two photos of the same fender before and after this step.
After you're satisfied with the curvature of your front fender, remove the front wheel and the steer linkage push-rod. It's not necessary, but this will give you more space to work:
Before installing the fender, find the little "L" shaped tab included with the hardware package. Install this, orienting it behind the fork as shown. Note: I've added my own radius washer to enhance the fit (not included with the Wald hardware).
Now that the tab is installed, connect the fender as shown here. This hardware is included with the fenders and provided by Wald.
Now it's time to shorten the stays to fit your 20" front wheel. Measure from the end of the stay and mark 4" and 4-1/4". Measure carefully. Then, use a hammer to flatten this area.
After you've flattened this area, cut the end off at the 4" marking. Use a hack saw or grinder. Drill a 1/4" hole at the 4-1/4" marking. File or grind the freshly cut edge to make it look good. Repeat this modification on both ends of the stay.
Install the stays. Attach the ends to the fork eyelets and then bolt them to the fender. This should be self-explanatory. Reinstall the wheel and steer linkage push-rod. You're done with the front wheel. Go grab a beer.
Note: The fork eyelets are threaded for 5mm screws only. The hardware included with these fenders won't fit. You'll need to obtain your own screws.
Next, screw the front end of the rear fender to the monostay eyelet. Use a drop of oil on the threads to prevent seizure. Note: Make sure to use a 6mm screw only. The hardware included with these fenders won't fit. You'll need to obtain your own screws.
To ensure the best fit, shorten the stays a little. Measure from the end of the stay and mark 1" and 1-1/2". Cut the end off at the 1" marking. Use a hack saw or grinder. Drill a 1/4" hole at the 1-1/2" marking. File or grind the freshly cut edge to make it look good. Repeat this modification on both ends of the stay.
You're done. The rear fender should now be attached to the bike at four places. The front fender should be attached to the bike at three places.